Rediscovering Bulgarian Wines: A Bold Journey at 50
This year, I turned 50.
As a pre-schooler, I grew up with the gentle charm of Bagpuss on television. As a tween, the leg warmer was a fashion must, and as a teenager, I danced to the infectious pop of Wham at school discos. Unfortunately however, I missed out on experiencing Bulgaria's wines at their peak of popularity. Apparently, bold, soft and fruity, the Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots of the Balkan Peninsula, dominated the UK’s supermarket shelves. However, there's one experience I missed out on—Bulgaria's wines during their heyday in the UK. Back in the ‘80s, Bulgarian Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots, known for being bold, soft, and fruity, filled supermarket shelves. According to Jamie Goode, they “over-delivered on flavour and didn’t cost much.” It’s a shame I didn’t get to enjoy them back then because, as a university student in the early ‘90s, just discovering wine, it sounds as if they’d have been the perfect choice.
By the late ‘90s, when I began to take wine more seriously, Bulgarian wines had almost vanished from the UK shelves. Even during my WSET Advanced Certificate studies in 2003, they were mentioned only briefly. Samples were few and far from impressive. Caroline Gilby MW attributes their decline to the breakdown of Soviet control and the re-privatisation of land. Vineyards were returned to owners who had little interest in growing grapes, quantity was prized over quality and wines became thin and green. Wine drinkers, including me, were sourcing their bold, soft and fruity Cabernets and Merlots from Australia.
Fast forward two decades, and I’ve still had little exposure to Bulgarian wines—until now. Inspired by the notion that it’s never too late (Manette Baillie took her first skydive at 102, after all), I decided that in my 51st year, it was time to explore them. I attended a tasting of Bulgarian wines, and it was eye-opening.
It’s no surprise that Bulgaria excels in red wines, given its warm, dry summers and mild winters. Bordering Greece in the south, the Thracian Lowland PGI enjoys a continental climate, with summer temperatures soaring between 30 to 35°C. These high temperatures are tempered by the cooling influence of the Black Sea to the east, and the Mediterranean Sea to the south, creating ideal conditions for growing bold, full-bodied wines.
No longer tied to Soviet control, Bulgarian producers have rediscovered their viticultural roots, moving beyond Cabernet and Merlot to revive native varieties such as Mavrud, Melnik, Gamza, Pamid, and Rubin—a standout cross between Nebbiolo and Syrah. Rupel Winery’s Gramatik, with its deep colour, toasted spice aromatics, and stewed blackberry fruit, offered bold, full-bodied character with chewy tannins. It was a wine of confidence and individuality, a true expression of the country’s resurgence.
Rupel Winery’s Gramatik Rubin
Chateau Burgozone’s Via Istrum Tamyanka
In north-west Bulgaria, the Danube Plain PGI stretches along the Danube River, offering the perfect setting for Muscat to thrive, as it does in warm climates worldwide. Other prominent white grapes found throughout Bulgaria include the pink-skinned Red Misket, Dimyat and Rkatziteli. The Danube plain provides the long, warm growing season to bring out Muscat’s signature terpene-rich aromatics of rose, lavender, and spice. The well-drained calcareous soils prevent the grapes from becoming too dilute, driving the grapes towards full sugar and phenolic (flavour and tannin) ripeness.
Muscat Ottonel can be found here but it was the distinguished Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains, known locally as Tamyanka, that impressed. Chateau Burgozone’s Via Istrum perfectly delivered Muscat’s recognisably rich, slightly oily texture balanced by a light, almond peel bitterness. Bone dry but with an opulent and exotic scent of honeysuckle, orange peel, and apricot, it was airy, gleeful and uncompromising in its expression.
Reflecting on the evolution of Bulgaria’s wine industry, I see parallels with my own journey. Much like these wines, I’ve gone through periods of growth, challenge, and discovery, and have come out the other side more assured and authentic. As I look forward to what my 50s will bring, I can’t help but admire how Bulgaria’s wines have similarly found their stride—bold, confident, and comfortable in their own unique identity.
